The return of the derby shoe

A Quiet Revival in Women’s Fashion.

There’s a quiet but unmistakable revival happening in women’s fashion—and it’s taking place at ground level. The Derby shoe, long associated with men’s wardrobes and traditional tailoring, is making a bold comeback for women. And this time, it’s more than just a borrowed-from-the-boys trend; it’s a powerful statement of individuality, comfort, and timeless style. —

A Brief History of the Derby Before diving into its resurgence, it’s worth understanding what defines a Derby shoe. Sometimes confused with its close cousin, the Oxford, the Derby features an open lacing system—meaning the eyelets are sewn on top of the vamp, allowing for a slightly wider fit.

This makes the shoe more forgiving and versatile, especially for those with higher insteps or broader feet. Historically, the Derby was seen as a less formal, more utilitarian shoe, often worn for hunting or outdoor activities in 19th-century England.

Over time, it evolved into a staple in men’s business and casual wardrobes. For women, however, the Derby has traditionally lived in the shadows—appearing now and then in androgynous fashion waves but never quite claiming mainstream appeal. Until now. — Why Now?

So why the return—and why is it resonating so strongly with women in 2025? Fashion’s cyclical nature is certainly a factor, but the Derby shoe’s re-emergence also speaks to broader cultural shifts:

1. Comfort is Non-Negotiable The pandemic years recalibrated how we approach fashion, with comfort and practicality rising to the top of our priorities. Stilettos and painfully narrow toe boxes have given way to supportive soles and foot-friendly silhouettes. Enter the Derby: a shoe that marries structure with ease, offering support without sacrificing style.

2. The Rise of Genderless Dressing Women today are increasingly embracing clothing and footwear that defy gender norms. The Derby shoe—sleek, minimal, and historically masculine—fits seamlessly into this narrative. Brands like Dr. Martens, Vagabond, and even luxury houses such as Prada and Church’s have launched gender-neutral lines, with Derby-inspired models that allow for self-expression beyond traditional binaries.

3. Versatility is Key The Derby shoe’s real superpower is its versatility. You can pair it with trousers, denim, skirts, dresses—even shorts. Whether you’re heading to the office, brunch, or an art gallery, a pair of Derbies adds just the right amount of edge and polish. It’s this adaptable nature that’s helping the style gain traction with women of all ages and backgrounds. — Modern Takes on a Classic Style Today’s Derby shoes for women come in a wide range of finishes and interpretations, from the classic black leather styles to chunky-soled, platform versions that play with proportion and drama. – The Minimalist Derby: Smooth leather, thin sole, and sleek lines—perfect for the office or any setting where you want a refined, tailored look. – The Chunky Derby: Thick rubber soles and exaggerated silhouettes add a touch of rebellion.

These are favorites among younger fashionistas who pair them with oversized jeans or midi skirts. – The Colour Pop Derby: Bold hues like cherry red, cobalt blue, and even metallics offer a fun twist on the classic. Great for injecting personality into neutral or monochromatic outfits. – The Mixed Media Derby: Think suede and patent leather combos or embossed finishes for a more elevated, textural appeal. Canadian brands like Maguire and Zvelle are also putting their spin on the style, designing Derby shoes that consider both aesthetics and functionality while aligning with sustainable and ethical practices. These homegrown options offer quality and craftsmanship, often with a distinctly modern Canadian edge.

Styling Tips for the Everyday Wearer If you’re new to the Derby shoe game, here are some easy ways to incorporate them into your wardrobe: – With Tailored Trousers: Go for a menswear-inspired look by pairing black Derbies with cropped or pleated trousers and a crisp blouse or oversized blazer. – With a Midi Skirt: Balance structure with softness by teaming your Derbies with a flowing skirt and fitted knit top.

– With Jeans: Rolled-up denim and chunky Derbies make for a perfect off-duty combo. Add a leather jacket or a longline coat for extra flair. – With Dresses:The contrast between a delicate dress and sturdy shoes adds visual interest and gives off a cool, contemporary vibe.

A Symbol of the Times The Derby shoe’s resurgence is not just about fashion—it reflects a wider shift in how women approach their style. It’s about choosing pieces that work harder, feel better, and last longer. It’s about embracing clothing and footwear that support movement, independence, and personality. In a world where speed and disposability have too often defined the fashion industry, the Derby stands as a symbol of grounded elegance. It’s durable, practical, and—most importantly—unapologetically stylish.

So, whether you’re dusting off an old pair or shopping for your first, now’s the perfect time to lace up and step into the Derby revival. Your feet—and your outfits—will thank you.